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The Moka-Lights : Technical How-To

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The Moka-Lights : Technical How-To

At the Costa Del, we are big believers that sharing is caring. So below you can find a full technical how-to on how you can achieve the Moka-lights look at your own salon

  • Step 1 : Divide the hair into a classic 4 parting. (ear-to-ear, X in the middle)
  • Step 2 : Start the highlighting on the sides , use thick sections ( 1,5cm/almost 1 inch), take very wide highlights with very slim spaces as left-out. (See video below for visualisation.)
  • Step 3 : Use very little product on the top of the root section, normal amount of product on the start of the lengths and more pressure and product towards the ends. 
  • Step 4 : Let the colour lighten until your desired tone.
  • Step 5 : Wash once with a neutral shampoo. (PH 5.5)
  • Step 6 : Counter-color all the warmth that is left in the hair. use a darker shade on the roots , and a much lighter shade on the lengths.  

My formula for Roxane (short/medium hair) : 

  • Highlights with Chi "blondest blonde" + 30vol / 9% + 1 hour  
  • Counter-Colored on damp hair =  Roots; 15 grams of 7-Ash + 3 grams of Blue additive + 3 grams of Violet additive + 6 grams of Ash additive. 13,5 grams of 20 vol / 6% peroxide.
  • Lengths: 15 grams of 10- Ash + 3 grams of Blue additive + 4 grams of Violet additive + 8 grams of Ash additive. 15 grams of 30vol / 9% peroxide. CHI IONIC 30 minutes

My formula for Julie (medium/long hair) :

  • Highlights with Chi "blondest blond" + 30vol / 9% + 1 hour
  • Counter-Colored on damp hair, Roots; 20 grams of 6-Beige + 5 grams of Blue additive + 10 grams of Ash additive. 17,5 grams of 20Vol / 6% peroxide .
  • Lengths; 20 grams of 10-Beige + 7 grams of Violet additive + 12 grams of Ash additive. 19,5 grams of 30 vol / 9 % peroxide. CHI IONIC 30 minutes.

Note : by using double the percentage of peroxide but half the amount you can colour on damp/wet hair. For example if you want to get a 7+10vol / 3% on damp hair it would become 20 grams of 7 + 10 grams of 20vol / 6% + damp hair = 7+10vol / 3%, the water acts as a 0 vol / 0%  

Any educated colorist can translate these formulas to his or her own brand, don't be afraid to use as much additives as I do, and remember the higher the percentage of your developer the more cool-color additives you will need. Also when going for a very light cool tone on the lengths you can use an uplighting colour as a base for your counter-color. 
 

xoxo